Chiang Mai and Samoeng Circuit, Thailand

The city close to nature, foodies’ paradise, grand temples of intricate architecture, dotted with quaint villages and a scenic mountain road circling through villages, jungles, waterfalls, and farms, Chiang Mai is a balanced blend of urban life and peace of mind.

I stayed in a homestay run by a very courteous couple in one of the by-lanes close to the Old City. Pancakes cooked by the host were so delicious that I made them my regular breakfast every morning. I explored the Old City and night market for 2 days and dedicated the rest of the days to traveling to nearby villages and completing the scenic drive of the Samoeng Circuit.

Wat Chedi Luang Varaviharn

The Old City, walled on four sides, is the most happening place in Chiang Mai, bustling with cafes, restaurants, pubs, street food carts (one of them being Michelin Star!), hotels, tourists, and not to forget grand temples, and there are lots of them, each one equally beautiful in its own way and charming. The most popular among them is Wat Chedi Luang Varaviharn. The ‘Wat’ stands for temple and ‘Chedi’ for stupa in the Thai language. It is a 14th-century temple housing a massive stupa with a height of around 60 meters (~18/20 floors). I was lucky to experience the inauguration ceremony of a new hall in the temple that culminated with the installation of a Naga (serpent) statue atop the hall. Nagas culturally signify protectors of the place, and you would find them in all temples. The streets across The Three Kings Monument and the road leading to Tha Phae Gate turn into a vibrant night street on Sunday evenings, and it’s something you must experience. I explored the Sunday Walking Street, and it was bustling with local food, clothes, crafts, live music, and performances by artists. I would definitely recommend everyone try mango sticky rice and shop for souvenirs in the Sunday night market as they are reasonably priced. The experience of the Old City is not complete without trying local dishes. ‘Rotee Pa Day,’ located nearby the road to Tha Phae Gate, is the Michelin Star street food cart and sells its famous banana rotee, which is similar to a pancake. I would recommend the soupy noodle Khao Soi at Khao Soi Khun Yai restaurant in the Old City. I also tried Longan drink here, which is lotus root juice, and found it refreshing. Unwind your day at one of the many pubs in Old City with Mai Tai, which is a local cocktail made of dark and white rum and orange curaçao. The charm of the Old City is in exploring its lanes, its grand temples, stopping over for a hearty Khao Soi, and shopping at its night market.

Khao Soi and Longan juice

Chiang Mai is surrounded by many beautiful villages like Pai, Mae Kampong, etc., and each village has a charm of its own and a scenic route. Mae Kampong, located around 50 km from Chiang Mai, is a quaint village with chill vibes, a happening night market, waterfalls, hot springs, and ancient rustic homes. There are two routes to reach Mae Kampong. The route via Highway 1317 also covers Mueang On Cave. The cave is perched on the hilltop, accessible by road, and parking is available there. You would be blown away by the sheer depth of the cave, which completely contradicts its entry through a modest small door. The cave is 100 meters deep (that’s like a 20-25 floors building) and houses a reclining Buddha, a million-year-old fossilized tree trunk, and natural formations of stalagmites and stalactites. The cave is well-lit and has a staircase to explore it conveniently. After exploring the cave, I stopped for a meal at the restaurant Teen Tok Royal Project. It is located close to Mae Kampong in lush greenery and even has a waterfall behind the cafe. Interestingly, the restaurant is part of the Royal Project Foundation, which is an initiative run by Thailand Royalty to improve the standard of living in tribal areas. I reached Mae Kampong late afternoon and decided to head to Kew Fin right away, exploring the waterfall in between. It has the beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding hills and valley, and it gets cold even during summers here. There are also some resorts here. On the way back, I explored Mae Kampong village and its nightlife. There are lots of bars, cafes, and a night market, and it gets happening and vibrant at night. As it is located at a little high altitude compared to Chiang Mai, it gets cold in a pleasant way during the night. There is also a hot spring by the name Doi Saket located near Mae Kampong, and you can cover it via Highway 3005 on the way back.

Mae Kampong night life

If you love long drives and road trips, then the drive of Samoeng Circuit is a must for you when in Chiang Mai. It’s a 100 km scenic route starting and ending at Chiang Mai, circumnavigating the Doi Suthep mountain and passing through Mae Rim, Samoeng, and Hang Dong districts. It takes around 3 to 5 hours to complete, and you can customize the places along the route as per your liking. I started off around 11ish in the morning and was back by 6 p.m. in Chiang Mai. On the way, I explored Elefin Cafe, which is also an elephant sanctuary, and you can feed elephants here, Mae Ya Waterfall, and tried bamboo rice sold by tribal villagers on the way. You can also visit the botanic garden Royal Rose Garden located just across Elefin Cafe and try their avocado ice cream and herbal tea. The avocado ice cream was delicious, to my surprise. The whole route is scenic, and roads are wide enough throughout the route, making it enjoyable to drive amid lush greenery and scenic views.

Doi Suthep temple

No trip to Chiang Mai can be completed without visiting the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple located on the top of Doi Suthep mountain. It has an iconic huge golden stupa and stunning panoramic view of Chiang Mai. I would suggest visiting the temple at the prayer time that usually happens around 6 p.m. I experienced the chanting of hymns, and it was a very peaceful and calming experience.

Chiang Mai is one of the gateways to the North of Thailand, a melting pot of culture, culinary delight, spiritual experience, and a getaway city to various beautiful northern villages of Thailand. With friendly and courteous people, a pleasant climate, and a vibrant vibe, Chiang Mai can be your home away from home in Thailand.

PS: Visit Wat Pha Lat temple on the way to Doi Suthep temple. The location of the place is very serene and calming