The Unchartered Goa, India

Envisioning Goa without its vibrant nightlife, sun-kissed beaches, and the rhythmic pulse of full moon parties is nearly impossible! It stands as a haven for party enthusiasts and those yearning for the serenity of its southern beaches. However, beyond the bustling shores lies a facet of Goa that is equally enchanting, tranquil, and veiled from the common eye—awaiting discovery by those who venture beyond the beaches.

As the monsoon descends, it breathes new life into the Western Ghats, transforming the entire landscape into a lush green spectacle. The beaches along the Konkan coast, stretching from Maharashtra through Goa and a bit beyond, embrace the off-season, trading their lively demeanor for a more subdued ambiance. While the Western Ghats come alive with verdant hues, cascading waterfalls, and ethereal mist, the beaches don a cloak of tranquility as ocean waves reclaim the coasts, prompting most beachfront shacks to shutter their doors. It is during this season that Goa's concealed treasures emerge as sanctuaries for those seeking solace in nature's embrace. Intrigued by the allure of Goa beyond its beaches during the monsoon, I embarked on a series of journeys that left me captivated by the region's abundant natural beauty. This travel story recounts the multiple paths I traversed through Goa during the monsoon, discovering its hidden wonders beyond the shoreline.

Embarking on the journey into Goa is, in itself, a breathtaking road trip. The coastal route winds through the picturesque beaches of the Konkan coast, while the path via Amboli unveils meandering hills adorned with waterfalls, a charming hill station, and an ever-present cloud cover that blankets the road in mist and coolness. Another route offers a fusion of both mountains and beaches, guiding travelers through Amboli hill station, descending towards Vengurla beach, and eventually crossing over to mainland Goa via the Satarda bridge. The fourth route, though one of the longest, takes you via Chorla Ghat, promising a worthwhile venture with its stunning landscapes, waterfalls, and jungle resorts where you can indulge in a night of pampering before reaching the vibrant shores of Goa. There is yet another route that traverses through Anuskura Ghat when coming from Pune. This path is adorned with windmills, lakes, nearby waterfalls, and, most notably, boasts unparalleled views that surpass any other route. While the coastal and beach route provides enjoyment year-round, it undeniably pales in comparison to the unparalleled beauty of the mountain routes of Amboli , Chorla and Anuskura ghats, especially during the monsoon season. 

Anuskura Ghat

The route via the coastal highway to Goa leads through secluded Konkan villages and pristine beaches such as Malvan, Harihareshwar, Tarkarli, and Vengurla, culminating at the northernmost tip of Goa at Tiracol fort. A government-run public ferry awaits to transport you and your car across the Terekhol river to the mainland of Goa. Tiracol fort, a 17th-century heritage structure now transformed into a luxurious hotel, invites visitors to explore its grounds, offering a drink on its rooftop with panoramic ocean views and a visit to its beautiful chapel. Known as Sagari Mahamarg, the coastal highway connecting Mumbai to Goa is adorned with untouched villages, temples, and beaches, providing a retreat from mainstream tourism. Indulge in mouth-watering Konkani cuisine, relish refreshing kokum, coconut-based sorbet known as 'Solkadi,' and the delicious coconut and rice flour sweet called 'Modak' as you recline under the shade of palm trees, listening to the rhythmic waves crashing on the shore at beachfront hotels or homestays. There are some light houses enroute this coastal highway in Devgad and Vengurla that have stunning views of vast ocean and surrounding villages.

The route via Amboli Ghat, Chorla Ghat and Anuskura Ghat is exceptionally beautiful during the monsoon and is a must-experience during this season. All these routes offer numerous waterfalls, scenic viewpoints, and accommodation options to relish the cool weather and lush green landscapes. Picture savoring hot chai at roadside stalls perched on the edge of ghats, while the rain showers the valley, creating a mystical atmosphere with mist and dense fog that frames the beautiful mountains, fading in and out with the passing clouds.

After arriving in Goa, I head straight to the south to find myself a cosy homestay in one of the quaint coastal villages. There are many things to explore during monsoon like night clubs, national parks, spice farms, paddy fields, waterfalls, heritage temples, heritage homes, Islands and beautiful villages in addition to some beaches that still have some shacks open during this time.

Latin quarters of Fontainhas

The villages surrounding Betalbatim, Sernabatim, Cansaulim, Fatrade, Cavelossim, Utorda, and Benaulim offer a perfect blend of the serene and vibrant facets of Goa. Wandering through the village lanes shaded by towering coconut trees, engaging in conversations over steaming hot coffee in cozy cafes, and taking leisurely strolls along the beaches is an incredible calming experience. This unique escapade rejuvenates the mind, infusing it with a sense of calmness and tranquility. A road trip to Parra, renowned for its scenic stretch of coconut palm trees and paddy fields, is a must visit for that perfect instagram pic. Discovering the rustic charm of Divar island, with its historic Portuguese architecture, quaint bars, and eateries, unfolds as another hidden gem. A leisurely walk through the alleys of Divar island, exploring its vibrant, colorful houses, and being surprised by peacocks in flight creates an enchanting way to spend quality time. Nearby, Chorao island, adorned with river-fringed mangroves and a touch of Portuguese architecture is also a gem hidden from the touristy Goa. Exploring Chorao island by Kayaking through its mangroves that meander through river by-lanes, spotting beautiful flora an fauna is a wonderful experience. The ferry terminals in Ribandar and St. Pedro are convenient points for accessing these islands and the ferry tickets are reasonably priced. Fontainhas, the latin quarter of Panji is also filled with colorful Portuguese villas and has vibrant bar and cafes dating back many decades. Then there are heritage homes such as the Menezes Braganza House in Chandor and Palácio do Deão in Quepem. These Portuguese-style mansions, filled with antique furniture, art, and historic artifacts, transport you back in time, allowing you to immerse yourself in the rich culture and fanfare of bygone eras.

Goa beach village lanes

Goa is blessed with lush and evergreen national parks, wildlife sanctuaries and spice farms. Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, situated a bit away from urban Goa, is renowned for its majestic four-tiered Dudhsagar waterfall and diverse fauna. Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, located in the Canacona region of South Goa, is famous for its dense jungle trails and a variety of flora. Nestled among these national parks and wildlife sanctuaries are organic spice farms that still adhere to traditional agricultural practices, cultivating a variety of spices, fruits, and essential oils. A visit to these spice farms is an eye-opener, as the tour guides you through the journey of cultivating everyday spices, fruits, and vegetables emphasizing the decades of hard work, meticulous care, and patience required to achieve the first organic harvest e.g it is astonishing that coconut tree takes around 6 to 10 years to produce first coconut organically. To conclude the tour, indulge in Feni, a traditional Goan liquor made from cashew or coconut, as many spice plantations house allied manufacturing units for this.

Morning strolls on Sernabatim beach in South Goa

Goan cuisine is as vibrant and flavorful as its beaches, and Fontainhas is home to some of the best restaurants and cafes to savor these culinary delights. Caravela Bistro in Panjim is renowned for its English breakfast and the Goan dessert Serradura. Infanteria in Calangute is a favorite spot for English breakfast and another Goan delight, Bebinca. A luncheon at Martin's Corner in Betalbatim is a must, celebrated for its seafood, chicken dishes and Tiramisu. For a romantic dinner or a casual hangout by the beach, Zeebop by the Sea on Utorda Beach is perfect. In addition to cafes, there are a few in-house bakeries like Jila Bakers where you can relish homemade Goan desserts. I always make it a point to grab some of these treats on my way back home.

Every time I visit Goa I discover something new. It is as charming in monsoon as in winters. Its pristine beaches of south as charming as its tranquil national parks and its vibrant night life as charming as its alleys of villages and old town. Goa has something for everyone for every season and everything for someone who is eager to discover it.

PS : There is a Shiva temple literally hidden from outside world in Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary called Tambdi Surla. It a small but has magnificent architecture dating back to 13th centaury located on the border between Goa and Karnataka. It can easily be covered as small detour on way to Chorla Ghat.