Sheen and Kangri of Kashmir, India

 

Sheen meaning snow in Kashmiri language and Kangri, the traditional pot that keeps the chill at bay, brings to mind the memories of cozy conversations with loved ones, sharing hearty meals as the cold air swirls around us. Sheen and Kangri, two contrasting elements that, when brought together, reveal the true essence of Kashmir—the beauty of its nature, its food, its people, and its culture; its  Kashmiriyat that goes beyond one's beliefs. This travelogue is a journey into the heart of my homeland, a quest to chase the snowfall and, in the process, rediscover the hidden gems of Kashmir.

The western disturbances were approaching the northern region that would cause moderate to heavy rain and continuous rain could trigger snowfall even in the plains of Srinagar. Similar to the contrasting nature of Sheen and Kangri, the inclement weather brought inconvenience to those reliant on the roads for their livelihoods. However, it also offered a silver lining—a precious opportunity for a brief respite from the daily grind. Families could come together, and tourists could escape to the mountain resorts of Kashmir, basking in the warmth of camaraderie or the chill of the snow. With the highway accessible only from Jammu to Kashmir, we embraced spontaneity, departing for Srinagar on Thursday to avoid potential road closures caused by the impending western disturbances.

Our journey to Srinagar was smooth, and as we arrived in the evening, the temperature began to drop. After making a few calls, we quickly arranged for a self-drive car with the help of a humble man named Wasim in Natipora. Returning to Kashmir after few years, I noticed positive changes in the city, with main roads and landmarks boasting a modern and plush appearance. Our lodging was a guesthouse nestled amidst towering trees of Zabarwan, with the historic Zeathyar temple nearby. The rustling leaves and the fleeting sound of temple bell immersed me in a meditative state, embracing the natural beauty surrounding us. I gazed out at the Dal Lake and its shikaras, silhouetted against the darkening sky as night descended. We looked forward for road trip Sonmarg, a quieter but equally enchanting destination compared to the bustling Gulmarg. After a quick dinner, we retired for the night, eager for the road trip of tomorrow.

Early on a chilly Friday morning, we had a quick breakfast of bread and butter toast with chai as the Zabarwan was blanketed by clouds, obscuring the view of Dal Lake. Despite the drizzle and dropping temperatures, we embarked on our journey towards Ganderbal, intending to visit the Kheer Bhawani temple before heading to Sonmarg. Driving past the gloomy Dal Lake, the sky turned white as it started to drizzle. At Kheer Bhawani temple, we performed our pooja amidst the increasing rainfall. It is said that the color of the spring in temple changes with the change in situation in Kashmir. Presently the color was milky white so there was assurance for good times in valley. Being famished after long drive, we were delighted to discover a nearby dhaba offering a full Kashmiri veg buffet, where we indulged in a hearty meal. Gathering around a bonfire, sipping on Kehwa(kashmiri green tea infused with saffron and dry fruits), and conversing with locals, we learned that the road to Sonmarg was still open, prompting us to set off before the weather worsened.

Sonmarg

Sonmarg, aptly named "meadow of gold" in Kashmiri, lives up to its reputation with its chilly climate and breathtaking landscapes. Connecting Srinagar to Leh via the treacherous Zoji La pass, it offers stunning views despite its challenging terrain. During late spring and summers, one can trek to Thajiwas glacier, as well as visit alpine lakes like Krishansar, Vishansar. and holy cave of Amarnath , the abode of lord Shiva. Our journey to Sonmarg was marked by awe-inspiring sights, from lush valleys to pine forests, all blanketed in pristine white snow.

As we ascended into the upper reaches, we were met with towering walls of snow, the rain transitioning seamlessly into a mesmerizing snowfall. Pausing to savor the moment, we watched a waterfall frozen in the sharp cold, adding to the beauty of the scene. Seeking warmth, we stopped at a nearby café, where icicles hung from the roof and a stream flowed beneath the glacier. Despite the impending bad weather, the locals graciously prepared Kehwa for us. The drive back to Srinagar was equally enchanting, with snow-covered hamlets nestled under a blanket of clouds. A continuous stream of clouds shrouded the mountains at their base, while the falling snow transformed the once-green landscape into a pristine white wonderland. Exhausted but content, we retired for the night, eagerly anticipating our next adventure to the snow paradise of 'Dhoodpathri' the following day.

Frozen waterfall in Sonmarg

Doodhpathri, located in the Budgam district of Jammu and Kashmir, is a scenic valley renowned for its natural beauty and serene ambiance. Its name, meaning "Valley of Milk," derives from the milky appearance of its streams flowing through lush green meadows, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Tangnar, Mujpathri, and Palmaidan are popular stopovers along the way. Tangnar features a picturesque gorge lined with pear trees and pine-deodar forests, while Mujpathri is known as the Valley of Turnips, with the tranquil Shaliganga river flowing through. Palmaidan, known for its ancient rocks and stream, serves as a summer campsite for shepherds. Nearby attractions include Dikshal meadows offering views of Ashtaar glacier and Yusmarg with its lush pastures.

Doodhpatri

We woke up a bit late, hurried through our usual breakfast of bread butter toast with chai, and set off towards Budgam. The road took us through the city, then small villages, and after navigating through the bustling town of Budgam, we began the ascent towards Doodhpathri. Despite the rain throughout the journey, we followed Google Maps' directions, albeit through an old route seemingly more suited for horses than cars. With guidance from locals, we eventually found Raiyar road, leading us to the entrance of Doodhpatri hill station. As we drove uphill, the rainfall intensified, and the landscape transformed dramatically, with towering trees lining narrow, winding roads. Suddenly, heavy snowfall obscured the surroundings, making the road slippery. Seeking refuge, we parked near a makeshift tarpaulin dhaba, where a local shepherd couple recommended trying Makke Ki Roti and Sarso Ka Saag. Surprised by the culinary delight amidst wilderness, I savored the meal while my wife opted for pahadon wali Maggie. Sitting by the bonfire, sipping hot kehwa, we watched as the snowfall intensified, occasionally stepping out to revel in the soft, pristine snow. 

With a two-hour drive back, we reluctantly left, only to find our journey hindered by the snow-blanketed road. Lacking snow chains, we sought help from humble locals who deflated our tires and guided us safely downhill. Our return journey to Srinagar was smoother, and upon reaching our room, we rested, comforted by electric blankets and heaters. Suddenly, the rain ceased, prompting my wife to venture outside, where she excitedly discovered the transformation into a snowfall. It was the perfect conclusion to our quest for snow in Kashmir, a delightful icing on the cake.

On our final day, we explored Hari Parbat fort, strolled leisurely around Dal Lake, and enjoyed a serene evening sipping chai at a cafe in Nehru Park, with a picturesque view of snow-clad mountains and relishing the warmth of  Kangri.

PS : "Chillai Kalan" is a term used to describe the harshest and coldest phase of winter in the Kashmir region. It typically lasts for about 40 days, starting from December 21st and extending until the end of January. While the heavy snowfall attracts tourists to the region, especially to popular destinations like Gulmarg and Pahalgam, it also poses challenges for the residents of Kashmir, as the extreme cold and snowfall can disrupt daily life.